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Bassetts Farm....This
little gem hidden in the depth of the garden of England. Bassetts Farm is
located near Cowden Railway Station just off the B2026.
Heading north up the B2062 turn right to Cowden Station, just before you
reach the station turn right again and go past The Moat and Bassetts,
just as you go past Bassetts Farm the road turns right at a gate on the
left, park by the gate
(there is only room for one car) as in the photo. Take the public
footpath
north for about 300 yards, the rock can just be seen from the road. When
we were there the farmer drove past a couple of times so we assume that
there is no access problem but discretion is the name of the game.
The rock consists of a main wall flanked by two lesser walls, the
climbing is rather difficult especially when damp and a fairly long dry
spell is recommended before
a visit for which a good afternoon's climbing can be had. Plough your
way through the long grass, brambles and stinging nettles to face the
main wall. The main wall which dominates
the area is of good quality sandstone with lower horizontal breaks
forming an ironstone type strata. The main wall's right flank is separated
by a large dirty gully which is a reasonable easy way to gain
access to tree belay points above.

Foam Dome 5a.
Just to the right of the easy way up
and about 5ft to the right of Excavator . Looks easy but if very hard if
slightly damp. Your belayer must be prepared for a quick Desmond. Take it
very easy just right of the arête and finish in the slimy scoop.
 
Dan's Wall 6a.
Start
about 6ft left of the arête. Take several horizontal breaks to a
difficult mantelshelf finish.
Excavator 5c.
Just
left of the arête, easier start and a difficult finish in a scoop whilst
taking the good ledge just right of the rope groove. Impossible if
slightly damp.
Karate Liz 6b.
Up
the center or the wall to a scoop. Long reach to finish.
Dislocator 6a.
Take
the main wall on it's left side a few feet from Kenian. Picture shows the
old bolt holes which you
can use to restructure your fingers and make to an old peg near the top.
go either left or right to exit.

Kenian Crack 4b.
Take
the large crack on the left of the main wall. A bit sandy and dirty but
worth it.

Looking right from Kenian Crack.

On the extreme left is another wall for
which there is a 5c,5b and a 4c arête. there is some question as to the
grading of these climbs unless we were in the wrong place, but in
mitigation it was a bit wet.

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