General Info:-   On Saturdays and Sundays and bank holidays a young lad usually comes around and collects the climbing fee. There is a toilette on the right at the top of the hill opposite the start of the ski lift.

The Rock:-  is Sandstone and is in very good condition with great friction on dry days but being sandstone is subject to erosion and care should be taken when climbing, please see the Sandstone Code.  Being south facing Bowles rocks is usually the first to dry after rain hence attracts a lot of visitors but recently has never been totally overcrowded and I have always found a place to park.  Bowles is good for bouldering, top roping and of course soloing. A crash mat is recommended and a good piece of carpet to clean your shoes is a must, long slings which take the top rope away from the rock is also an essential item to help stop erosion. There is a good selection of belay bolts at the top of each climb so there is no excuse for not setting up a good belay. The use of chalk is allowed though please use conservatively.   ............  Abseiling is banned !

  What is at Bowles Rocks:- There is a good selection of grades and mixture of climbs with a grand traverse of the whole crag. There is easy gully's for beginners, 7a bouldering to easy top rope climbs. There is enough at Bowles to hold the interest of most climbers for hours if not days...... For a pictorial look around Bowles Rocks in sequential order, take a moment to look at the Bowles Rocks photo page.   

The Climbs:- Walk up from the car park past the wooden equipment hut on the right and the small stream on your left. Behind the hut is a few climbs which are rarely climbed. Please Click on the pictures to enlarge. below is a description of some of the most popular routes. For an easy descent from most of the climbs follow the path at the top of the climbs either east or west to a good exit via steps or climb down some of the easy routes taking care not to wear the rock down or get in the way of other climbers.

 Lady in Mink 6a The right side of the wall just to the right of Nealon's, up the easy ledge and then finish on the overhang above via a lip on the left and a slanting finger size groove on the right, get your feet up and lock off, then slap for the top. Move left to the arête at peril unless 6b is cool. see photo right......

Nealon's 4c Up the centre of the wall to a difficult ledge and then up the easy chimney. Good hidden jugs but it is easy to get the ledge all wrong. Comes fully recommended as a good solo but unforgiving if you get it wrong. Just a foot to the left of Nealon's is a good 5c which goes up the hardest part of the wall.

Wally 4b Again up the wall but further left without using the arête.     Bovril 4b The arête mainly on the right side.

Across the other side of the gully which is usually used as an easy descent or a training area for beginners (there is a large metal loop held up by wires just above the exit, mind your head) is the Alka Seltzer area.

Encore 5c A foot or two from the right corner, go straight up the wall to the break at the break make a difficult mantelshelf move to exit.

Seltzer 5b A good start up the difficult bending slot in the middle of the wall to a difficult ledge keeping right, away from easy ground to the left. Rest before taking the vertical crack to a difficult finish. 

Alka 4c A marvellous outing on good holds up the arête and onto a good ledge for a rest. Move right a little to face the large vertical slot a couple of feet left of the exit of seltzer. Thrutch up the slot with interest and a good exit.

The Alka Seltzer area is also good for bouldering. There are numerous routes though the start of Encore traversing left to Alka is a good 5b warm up. The gully left of Alka is called .

Renison Gully 3a Up the easy large crack and out right to a very good ledge. There is a belay bolt where the crack ends.

Finale 5c - 6a Start up the right hand side of the gully to a roof above left.

Escalator 5a and Elevator 5a. In the gully on the left is a couple of climbs up the wall on small holds and finish on the ledge via a mantleshelf.

Fragile Wall 3c+  This takes the blunt arete. There are several starts to this climb. Go up  direct or come in from the left or right , slightly easier from the right though the direct start makes this climb more worthwhile. Move up the obvious crack moving left to the large ledge or go straight up the arête for a 5a finish .

October 4c Just 2 ft left of Fragile Wall. Go straight up and finish almost on Fragile Wall.

Hennessy Heights 5b Go up the wall by a large vertical slot in the bottom of the wall. Go straight up using the strenuous ribs to easier horizontal slots.        

Larchant  5a An easier climb than Hennessy though not without some interest especially now the stal has broken off. Start about 4 ft left of Hennessy and make for the vertical smooth slot. Please take care with positioning slings so as not to wear away the shelf. There is some good bolts above but require long slings. The blocks above Hennessy can also be climbed. 

There is some good bouldering under Hennessy Heights with a good low level  traverse going at about 6a and a higher traverse at about 5a/b, both these traverses can be linked with the traverse below Alka. Needless to say there is a traverse of the whole crag which goes at 5c but of less interest to the boulder.

UN 5c Just to the right of funnel is a difficult balancy wall which leads to the crux finish up to the right onto a slight overhanging block. 

The funnel 4a takes the central vertical smooth wide scoop seen in the centre of the photo left. Start beneath this slot or scoop either direct or slightly left which makes the start a little easier, Make for the scoop for a difficult but interesting finish.

A couple of meters right of funnel is a good wall and Nelsons Column 5a Take the large crack or slightly right of this and go straight up to a good mantle on the second break.  

Below the whole length of Funnel is a good low level traverse of about 5b, ideal as a good warm up or a longer start to Nelsons Column.

Almost opposite the swimming pool is a large arête, this is Pigs Nose one of the most famous climbs at Bowles and attracts a lot of attention at peak times.

Pig's Ear 5C Again just a foot or so left of T.T. step up to a crack (fist jam) which finishes with small holds to an overhang taken on it's right side to a hidden ledge. Finish out left.

Coathanger 5c The arête on the left of the wall gives a fine line starting with a difficult thrutch up the corner to easier ground above the arête.

Next to Coathanger on the left is TNT 5c, The often wet and dirty wall in the middle. In the corner is Babylon 4b again usually very greasy and not very often climbed.

Drosophila 5a 6ft to the right of the Banana groove is a great climb using the cut holds provided. Start straight up then move slightly left to a ledge then out right to finish. One of the best at Bowles.

Reclamation Slab Right 2b  A good climb up cut holds on the right of the large slab. Good for a solo or beginners.

Reclamation Slab 5c Up the middle of the slab steering clear of any of the cut holds, very balancy and god fun

                          Please click on the photos to enlarge.

Please click on the photos to enlarge.