Harrison's Rocks

Instead of turning right for Bowles carry on towards Tunbridge Wells down the A26. Turn left to Eridge Station and again left after the Huntsman Pub. Go down this lane for about 1 1/2 miles until you see a sign to Harrison’s on the left. Toilets and ample parking are provided. Walk down one of the path’s through the woods to the rock’s (10mins).

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Virtual Tour .... Have a quick look at Harrisons via Photos.

Harrison’s is big compared to other local sandstone outcrops with about 3/4 mile of good sandstone 10 to 20ft high from the North Boulder to Unclimbed Wall on the beach in the south. Over the last couple of years Harrison's has undergone a few changes, mainly to stop erosion by the thousands of visitors it receives every year,  heavy rope matting ,  path reconstruction and new boarder limits have made a big visual impact but less obvious is the reconstruction of old worn out holds which should hold the tide back for a few years.

Crowborough Corner 5b going on 5c

UNCLIMBED WALL AREA

Starting at the beach or unclimbed wall (South).  A fence across the path at the southerly end of the rocks marks the start of the official climbs but several have been claimed east of the fence deep in the vegetation.

Click on the small photo's for a full size preview.

Rift 5CStarting at the fence seen here hidden by the bushes is the first climb. Usually very wet and greasy and sports difficult overhung starts. Belay to the small trees above the climbs. 

Meat Cleaver 5c Climb the crack next to the fence.

Neutral 6a The next crack. 

Witches Broomstick 5c Things start to get easier here with a nice easy finish up the obvious crack.

Rift 5C Photo shows a climber on Rift, difficult  pull up start which leads to easier ground above the small roof which runs out to the right. Continue straight up.The top of Rift ....

 

A good traverse outing which can be fully recommended is via Zig Zag and takes the horizontal crack running right to either Witches Broomstick or Neutral. About 4C. Fully recommended !!

 

Zig Zag 5a

Zig Zag 5a A well used route which starts a foot or so to the right of the obvious arête, see photo of climber starting Zig Zag, Step right at 1/3 height to a vertical crack, go up this then back left again to finish up above the arête. 

Bulging Wall 5c. There are several starts to this route which takes the arête direct. Some start by using a heel hook out to the left and reaching a good lip, others start with a dyno for the same lip and others creep out to the right which is really off route,  finish directly up the nose of the arête where there is no substitute for good footwork, balance and a bit of power. 

Moving around to the left side of Bulging Wall Solstice can just be seen in the photo.

Solstice 5c.  This takes the wall next to Bulging Wall. An easy move to a good positive ledge leads to a difficult pull and slap to  stand up next to Bulging Wall and easy finish.   Rarely climbed but a fine route avoiding easy ground on the left.

Sunray 5a. To the left of Solstice, not worth any more of a mention.

Unclimbed Wall Area... To the left of the easy way down.

Unclimbed Wall Variation 6a

All Unclimbed Wall Area ..... 2000

 

Right Unclimbed 6a Just left of the easy way down, this climb take a small slanting crack off to the right (see climber left ) and wedge your right toe in the crack and take a delicate move to finish directly above.

 

 

 

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UNCLIMBED WALL 5b A trade route approx 10ft to the left of a gully or easy way down. Step up on to a small break and reach up right for another small break. Reach up again leaning right to an awkward hand shuffle to an imprint of a bear’s paw. Take this and make for some iron stones again on the right for an easy finish. A direct start is 6a... 

Desperate Dan 6a. Instead of stepping out right for Unclimbed Wall go straight up to what seems a blank wall, take the first break to  a small smear/lip which takes a right foot to a long reach for the top, ok for the tall.   

 

Climber on Far Left .. 5c

ELEMENTARY 5c Look for the vertical crack left of Unclimbed. Great layback finish. The hidden JUG in the crack has now been cemented over. Ha Ha!

Far Left 5c. Climber on Far Left. Easier than Elementary and a nice little climb taking in a section of stals on horizontal breaks to a slappy finish. Can be a bit of a dirty up top. Low in it's grade.

BASKERVILLE 5c 2 or 3 feet to the right of the end of Unclimbed Wall. Easy start but difficult finish onto an Elephants back. Usually two rivers run down Baskerville in the winter

The picture left shows a climber on Far Left with Hell Wall just visible out left after the break called Charon's Chimney a good 3a.

Hell Wall 4b/c  A stonking 4b/c  with a difficult start just left of the chimney.  If you can start it you can finish it, this climb sometimes takes the more experienced climbers by surprise. 

Senarra 5a Near the center (a bit left of center) of  Hell Wall is senarra. Difficult finish from a balancy stance to a slap and pull finish.  

Moving left from Hell Wall about 10 feet or so a prominent scoop is visible just to the left of a small cave.  

Pullover 5c Pull up over the cave on good holds to a difficult finish. 

The Scoop 5c. Harder than it looks and all depends on balance and trust in friction. Finish out right of the scoop.

There are a few more climbs in this area (Birch Tree) which leads to a corner and Shodan.

Birch Tree Wall 4c.

Birch Tree Crack 3b.

Wander at Leisure 4c.

Half-Crown Corner 5b.

Shodan 5c. The wall just around the corner from Half-Crown sports good solid pinch holds. Take the wall and use the slight overhang to swing out right to finish up the arête above Half-Crown.

Philippa 6a Same start as for Shodan but instead of moving right keep on going up to rounded overhangs out left. Difficult wild swing to a good but unconvincing hold. Can be a bit damp.  

Moving left pass Muscle Crack 6a and over a wooden bridge is Spider Wall. This misses about 15 to 20 climbs which are usually very damp but will be included in the next update.

Looking at the photo below taken from Muscle Crack area Grant's Wall can be seen on the right and Spider Wall on the left.

Spider Wall Left .... Grant's Wall right..Grant's Crack 5a Guess what? The crack on the right wall which is usually very slimy.

Grant's Groove 6a Just to the right of Grant's wall this takes the vertical indentation which is usually slimy.  

Grant's Wall 6a About 6ft right of cave wall. Make a jump start (easier if you are tall) for a stal and lever yourself up to a greasy wall on small footholds to a difficult mantelshelf under an overhang. Stand on the ledge and take the overhang by moving to the right of the bolt. An easy 6a me thinks....

Crack & Cave 4a Take the Cave Crack ??

Cave Wall 5b. This goes up the corner of the wall facing the cave. 

Spider Wall  5b About 6ft left of the arête and the cave wall.  

Stepping left pass Last Chance 5c and Second Chance 6a.

Forget-Me-Not 6a. Difficult start on rounded rock to a good easy rest then a difficult finish up over the top.


ISOLATED BUTTRESS AREA.

Walk North to the Isolated Buttress. A large block of Sandstone placed by God for climbers. Belay points are reached by jumping over the gap that separates the Buttress from the main land, just follow one of the paths to the back of the buttress...... Take Care Please !

BOYSEN’S ARÊTE 6a Take the arête under the boulder wedged between the buttress and the main land. Great climbing straight up the arête then make a difficult balanced move out left  to a hand jam under the bolder. 

 

Good picture of climber on Crowborough Corner with Birchden on the left and Wailing on the right.WAILING WALL 5c The center of the wall to the left of Boysen’s . Great start even though the floor has eroded away a bit in the last few years, with a great layback leading to more difficult ground and the first ledge. Just when you think you’ve cracked it make a difficult balance move for the top.  

 

Birchden Corner 5c. Crowborough Corner 5c.  The next corner to Wailing Wall. Start just right of the corner and start fairly easily on a crack which leads out left to a tricky rounded blind hold. Once you have found this it's all over!

BIRCHDEN CORNER 5c. Jug city !! A great climb straight up the arête on large overhanging holds. When they run out move a little left to a crack and get your balance, another move right sees you on top of the rounded arête.

Birchden Wall 5b Another great climb just left of the corner.  Start on a little step and walk up an obvious  crack with difficulty to a good ledge using a good handhold found in the break just above your head. Rest a while before going straight up an obvious crack to the top.

Diversion 5c. A difficult little number up the center of the main wall. Zig zag a bit to find the best finishing position on the top shelf.

Edward's Effort 6a. Start on fairly easy ground to a difficult finish via a shallow rounded crack.

ISOLATED BUTTRESS 4c    Move round to the where the next corner starts under a large overhang. Climb the arête on the left moving to the right. Have a rest before taking the crack above the overhang. Check out the cement.

Variation's  Start directly in the middle of the honeycomb wall on easy but balancy holds to the center of the roof about 4a/b. Traverse left along the ledge to finish up West Wall or North-West Corner. 5c finish.... A great outing with a good belay from above West Wall.

southwest corner start 6asouthwest corner 6asouthwest corner 6a

South-West Corner 6a. Start just left of the sharp arête and move up right to take the arête direct on very positive good holds to where the roof  is reached. Step out left and then up to find a difficult undercut and balance, before taking the exit up right. Sometime ago the original hold disappeared and some folk step left after the undercut and take a hold just above before moving out right to finish.

West Wall 5c. Again start up the arête on the right and traverse out left to reach the center of the wall and a large undercut slightly up to the left, Swing up using the often slimy horizontal break to the undercut. This undercut sounds very hollow and I hope it's still there when you try it.  Step left a foot and finish straight up.  

Woolly Bear 6cwoolly bear 6c woolly bear 6cWoolly Bear 6c

Woolly Bear 6c. Very finger snapping start to a ledge, then a long reach (dyno) for the next ledge. Finish up West Wall. 

 

 

North West Corner 5c. Start either directly under the corner arête next to the dirty, wet walkthrough that separates the Buttress from the main land.  Some start slightly to the left and then move out to take the arête direct on solid but strenuous holds to a difficult balance finish.

Greenfingers .... 5cGreen Fingers 5c. Sorry but I really like this one. Start in the darkness a couple of feet left of North West Corner, great holds on steep rock to finish just left of a boulder above. Better when not green !!!

Bloody Fingers 6a. Take the middle of the wall left of Green Finger. Hard....

Powder Finger 6b.  Even harder, a couple of feet right of Boysen's Arête. Gets harder above the first move.  

Just behind the buttress is the following moving north.

Two-Toed Sloath 5a. This climb starts a few feet left of a gully and is easily recognised by the stalactites that mark the first move. Grab the stal and walk up the wall to a ledge via a large hold. Finish above.

Moving along this wall about 20 feet to a large scoop.

The Mank 6a.  A good jug in the scoop can easily be seen but harder to reach. A difficult move takes you above the scoop. 


A short walk from the buttress and left of an easy way down by a wooden shelf to stop water erosion is the Toevice.

Toevice 6a. A small rounded crack where you can place your toe for a very finicky thrutch for the main shelf, this comes as a bit of a surprise as the first ledge is easily reached!

The Vice 4c. Follow the crowds up the middle on good holds.


NIBLICK AREA

A prominent block about 20ft high a short walk from the Isolated Buttress (2 Mins North).

THE NIBLICK 5b Probably the best 5b climb in the South if not in the world !! Take the center of the wall starting from a boulder. Move left a bit then up to a great layback. Carefully move up to the overhang and don’t get wedged in the vertical slot at the top as you go out right over the nicely rounded finish!

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The Republic 6b A good test piece for up and coming rock stars. Move up the arête keeping slightly to the right, a series of breaks leads to an easier finish. 

FORESTERS WALL 5b Go left around the corner from the Niblick and find the next arête but one. Just to the right of this arête take the obvious line bearing slightly left. Bear right for a harder finish 5c. Again a great climb starting on typical rounded sandstone type holds and a committing finish up the wall. A direct start in the middle of the wall is 6a.

Bonanza 5c.  Start this climb the same but move out right after the initial break and finish more over the arête.


Gardeners question time to Archers wall. Moving further north (see photo).

Starting at the left end of the wall in the photo and working right.

Gardeners Question Time 5b. A rarely climbed nasty bit of work which always seems to be dirty. Start in the middle of the wall. No more help than that !!

Quiver 5c. 

Toxophilite 5c.

Little Sagittarius 5a.

Sagittarius 5a.

Archer's Wall 5c.

and just around the corner Stupid Effort 5a.


LUNCHEON SHELF AREA.

A large overhanging some 2 mins walk from the Niblick area. 

Dark Chimney 3a ...

Dark Chimney 3a. A great introduction to climbing at Harrison's and a favorite of many a beginner and well worth the effort !! Some say it's a lower grade but it doesn't matter does it? 

 

 

 

THE FLAKES 6a The classic 6a route in this area just a few feet right of Long Layback. Go to the roof and then traverse right on wet, slimy, dirty finger holds to a left sloping crack. Please tell how you finished it!

G.Adcock on the Flakes 6a

LONG LAYBACK 5a Straight up the crack in the right hand corner of the Luncheon Shelf. A well trodden route with a shiny, slippery tree root to start from.

 

Slab Direct 4c ....

Slab Direct 4c .... Around the corner from Luncheon Shelf is a fine slab, take this direct for a good 4c.

 

 

North Boulder (Good to just mess around on, Try the 5c).

 

  So many climbs and so Little time !!!!