High Rocks

Located opposite the High Rocks Hotel between Groombridge and Tunbridge Wells.

This must be the best rock for slightly higher graded climbs in the outcrop. With most climbs starting from 5a/b approx 20-30ft. Truly a magnificent place even for non climbers with only one drawback. That being the poor ability to dry after wet weather, making High Rocks not the place to visit in the winter. There is a fee payable at the Hotel and the climate between climbers and the owners seems to vary so please be unobtrusive. Park in the car park around the back of the rocks and enter through the turnstile ( usually unmanned ) after paying in the Pub. You should get an interesting leaflet describing the history of the rocks from the hotel etc etc....

The area is split into several sections, The east side has recently been expanded but does suffer from being north facing and high tree coverage making it very slow to dry (see bottom photo). The photo above shows probably one of the most popular areas with Hut Boulder on the right, Nemesis (6b) up the wall in the middle and Mulligans Wall (5c) on the left by the steps.

The Hut Boulder. Named after a brick hut that used to be built on the east side of the boulder, for which the remains can still be seen.

Local climber on Crack Route 4c, the easist route on this boulder which gives access for belays. A rope slung over from the other side is useful if you don't fancy a solo to setup your long slings.

Pinchgrip 5c, Move to the right a few feet and look for a vertical indentation, move out right with difficulty using a sandy pinch grip, finish easily straight up.

Swing Face 5b, Go up the dark crack (see photo) which slants to the right under the centre of the arete, move out left (crux move) to the main arete face, then up. Start direct under the arete if you fancy a harder start.

Birthday Arete 5b, Start slightly to the right of Swing Face and go up the Arete. Cool !

 Sequins Of Cosmic Turbulence 5c, The wall just to the right of Birthday Arete, Start in the right sloping groove which goes out over the old hut. Move up to a difficult move to a horizontal break. 

Roof Route 5a, Take the slanting crack (see climber in photo) all the way using the path of least resistance. Difficult finish but it can be worked out.

Across the way from Hut Boulder moving south east 50 yards or so is a gully which turns a corner to Odins Wall, ( See Climber in Photo). Around the corner to the left of the climber is several worth while routes. The main feature of this area is the honeycomb style of rock which gives good pinch grips for strong fingers. 

Odins wall 5c, (Photo Left) Great climb with a nice shelf half way but a difficult finish on a large jug to the left, on the top shelf which puts you right out of balance.

Moving south agin a few feet finds some writing on the rock, move left a few feet and find the honeycomb wall.

 Honeycombe 6b, Classic climb up a wall a few feet left of the arete. Some say this is easier than it's cousin CyB next door, including myself.

Craig-y-blanco 6a, Take the arete on honeycombe type small holds, Very difficult finish.

Photo shows the north eastern area.

Further Climbs to Try

HENRY THE NINTH 5b. ADVERTISEMENT WALL 5b. BOW CRACK 5a.

ORRER CRACK 5a. NAVY WAY 5c. DEGENRATE 5c.

Other suggestions from Graham Adcock..... 

Steps Crack 5B, Monkey Nut 5B, Krankenkopf Crack 5B (one of Martin Boysen's "Desert Island Climbs"), .....

Moving further down the road is High Rocks Annexe. Just up and across the Tunbridge road (10 mins walk) there is a small outcrop hidden in the trees. A dozen small climbs worth a visit in dry weather. What beautiful surroundings, so mellow, so tranquil, get back to nature, forget the rock its just a good place to be. Please note that these rocks are on private land and permission from the bungalow at the back may be required.