Stone Farm

Stone Farm OS Ref 382 348 is one of the smallest sandstone outcrops in the Southern Sandstone group. but is a favourite venue for a lot of climbers mainly due to it's quick drying qualities, good mixture of routes, excellent views over the Weirwood reservoir and close proximity to the M23 and East Grinstead. Parking can be a bit of a problem as the lane opposite soon fills on a summers evening with climbers cars.

Stone Farm is owned by the BMC and also holds SSSI status, therefore extreme care should be taken not to damage any of the rock or surroundings. The rocks are located about halfway down the road which goes from the B2110 in the north to Tyes Cross in the South.

The approach is via a footpath entrance on the opposite side of the road from a lane (50 yds down the road) where a very limited number of parking spaces are available. Care should be taken when crossing the road as the entrance is on a blind bend. After about 100yds up the footpath the first rock (boulder) can be seen on the left facing south overlooking the reservoir, the rest of the outcrop spreads out westwards for about 250 yds and slightly down hill. Most of the top outs can be easily belayed via suitable trees and long slings.     

 Click on the small photo for a full size picture.

The Inaccessible Boulder Area The fist boulder seen from the entrance path is called the Inaccessible Boulder.

Balham Boot Boys 6a. Start about a meter right of the eastern corner of the boulder and make for a rounded mantelshelf, continue up slightly right to finish.

South East Corner Crack 4b.  Start up the center of the south facing wall and move out right to the crack. 

Boulder Wall 5c.  Just to the right of PG. Goes to the overhang to finish.

Primitive Grove 4b. Start up the centre of the south facing inaccessible boulder  then out left.

South West Corner Scoop 5a. Difficult start to a good ledge then left to the scoop.

Leaning Crack 5a. Classic Stone Farm Climb .... Start below the crack and move up onto easier ground then a difficult move to the top via smooth rounded holds.

Ashdown Wall  Following the rock west a few yards leads to the Ashdown Wall.                                                             Click on the small photo for a full size picture.

Gap Traverse 4a. Traverse right to left at low level across the gap.

Ashdown Wall 4b. Straight up the centre of the wall.

Bulging Wall 5b. This route is on the corner of the block and liberally peppered with big holds.

Milestone. In between Ashdown wall and the main area is a little boulder.

Milestone Arête 4a & Milestone Stride 4b.

Pinnacle Area. A large pinnacle separated from the mainland gives more demanding climbing with difficult south facing wall.

On the right (east side) of the pinnacle is a nose. Nose Direct 5c. Directly up the nose makes a difficult 5c. Reaching out right eases the grade to 5b.

Quoi Faire 6c. Start 2 yards left of the nose and make the break. Up right and a hard move to finish left again.

Belle Vue Terrace 5c. A classic climb up the right side of the arete moving out right.

Key Wall 4c. The west face of the pinnacle about a yard left of Belle Vue Terrace.

Bare Essentials 5c.
Bare Necessities 5c. Arete right of easy crack.
Pinnacle Buttress 5b.

All below is Under Construction !!  August 2002....

Click on the small photo for a full size picture.

Undercut Wall 3b.

Front Face 5b.

Thin 5c.

Chipperydoodah 6a.

Curling Crack 3b. Click on the small photo for a full size picture.

Illusion 6b.

Control 5b.

Remote 4c.

The Slab / Direct 4a.

 

Pine Crack Area

Pine Crack 3b.

Pine Buttress 5b.

Stone Farm Crack 4b.

Cat Wall 5b.

Stone Farm Chimney 4a.

Footie 5c.