Southern Sandstone

Spring Wood near Bassetts Farm

Officially Birchcope Shaw Rocks.

One of the most picturesque crags in the south East of England set on the side of a secluded local path know as Bassets Mill Walk by locals which is approached via a small stream and medieval wood through beds of wild flowers including spring bluebells.

We first got wind of this small crag last year (April 2004) whilst visiting a couple of other small crags which we will publish later on in the year. Graham (shelf) and myself managed a magnificent 4b we called Caroline in what can only be described as damp and slimy conditions but when we visited it this year the crag was in very good condition and Caroline 4b proved a worthy 2nd look and a first solo plus possibly a star.

The crags consists of two separate features one of which shows lots of potential for harder routes which is called "The Caroline Wall". The second section is split into two sections by a dirty gully and again shows good potential for a traverse and a small roof out to the right. The photos below will help to identify the location of the routes.

Access:- This rock is on private land and is owned by a Mr Rawlin who's daughter can sometimes be found entertaining her kids with a barbeque above the rock. On our last visit she said that her dad would not mind the odd climber and allows walkers through the wood. Please be aware that this could easily change if the rock or the area is abused. Locally the area is known as Bassett Farm or Mill Walk because of its close proximity to Bassetts Farm though the official name is Birchcope Shaw Rocks, dog walkers and running enthusiasts are a common site on a sunny Sunday but otherwise it's you the deer and badgers.

This article does not imply any access rights.

The rock is fairly good and well weathered with hardy any crumbly bits, there are quite House opposite entrance to footpath. a few hidden holes that are very hard and usable but difficult to find on site, some vary from finger sized drill holes to large fist sized undercuts but don't get too excited as there are not that many. The main boulder ie Caroline Wall is about 15ft high and is a bit green though shows signs of drying in mid summer, there is a good selection of stals which feel very usable but were too wet on our visit. The lower wall seemed to be 99% dry though the exits were very prickly. Not a crag for the faint hearted climber who likes everything perfect but more a crag for an adventurer who enjoys being outdoors. Being a bit boggy nearby the mosquitoes are there in force so a good dose of mozzy zapper is advised when the sun is out. Gardening is not advised as the area too beautiful to mess with, just go there and enjoy and leave as if you were never there!

Location:- (Kent) Located near Cowden Railway Station just off the B2026 near Bassetts Farm. Heading north up the B2062 turn right to Cowden Station, just before you reach the station turn right again and go past The Moat and Bassetts, go past Bassetts Farm gate and continue down the road about 1/2 a mile until you come to a dip in the road and a footpath sign on the left opposite a large house (see photo). Parking is possible here for 2 or 3 cars and when Bassetts farm parking is full this area is often used as an overflow. Follow the footpath for a few hundred yards until a stile is reached and fork slightly right and not over the stile (see photo) continue along this path over a log bridge held together with plastic ("honest" see photo) again continue slightly uphill past a garden shed on your right (I know you don't believe me now) and the crag is a few yards on about 40ft on the right from the path.

The Routes:- The last boulder up the hill is probably the best this is The Caroline Wall. The photo gives a good idea of scale and shows a green wall which is surprisingly dry for this time of the year (May 2005) I suspect that by September it will be fully dry and very climbable though hard. On the right is a good scoop just out of the vegetation.

Caroline Wall

Caroline 4b * (Andy Mepham + Graham West April 2004 Solo June 2005) The very right hand side of Caroline Wall is a right sloping scoop which is reached by a balanced step below two horizontal breaks. Step up again on blind foot holds to reach a jug hole. Swing your right leg up to the slope and udge up to a standing position on the slope (crux). Move slightly left to a balanced smear and soft moss carpet above.

The Cost of Everyone 4b (Graham West + Andy Mepham Solo July 2005) Starting a foot or so to the right of Caroline is a "D" carved in the rock at ground level, start here and go straight up and slightly right of the scoop and finish with a mantelshelf crux out right above the scoop. Harder than it looks.

Moving round to the North end of the Caroline boulder is a couple of good climbs. This end of the boulder can be a bit wet but shows signs of drying out if we have a good summer, having said that the stals look wet but are surprisingly positive.

Mepo and Mantels 4a (Graham West + Andy Mepham Solo July 2005) Start almost as far left as possible just under a good 45 degree slot which is about 2 foot long. Step up to this slot and lay back out right to place your right foot on a break. A long reach for the tree route above or a hand jam in the slot below the tree makes for a good finish.

Unfinished project 5b. (Andy Mepham + Graham West Solo July 2005) A yard to the right of Mepo and Mantels is unfinished project. Start by the huge stals and step up to a vertical crimp out left and a hole out right and hug a bulge, step out right to a small scoop and a mantelshelf finish. This climb has not had a clean ascent as the top is wet though several sterling attempts have been made.

The rest of the Caroline Wall awaits attention.

Barneys Wall

To the right of Caroline wall and set back a few feet is a dirty gully which separates two nice features. A nice flat overhanging wall (Barneys Wall) on the left which leads down to a chimney and a dirty gully and a small roof on the right.

Where Caroline finishes and the Barney wall starts is a good little 4b.

Barney 4b. (Andy Mepham + Graham West solo June 2005) Start on the left where the vegetation finishes and down a step, reach up left for a good stal and out right to a smaller half stal. Step up and take a ledge well above and mantle finish. Harder than it looks.

The rest of the wall remains unclimbed apart from the very right hand corner.

Robert 5a (Andy Mepham solo May 2005) This is located the other end of the Barneys wall near the chimney. Start about a yard left of "Bobs Route " and step up to a balance and reach out right to a half moon layback, reach above to a large hole and follow through with your feet smearing to a dirty finish as for "Bobs Route ".

The finish is a little harder now so a 2nd ascent is welcome

Bobs Route 4a Bob Moulton 1998. (Andy Mepham + Graham West April 2005) Keep just left and out of the chimney and go up. Fun route.

At the far end of the wall is a chimney.

Andy and Grahams Chimney 4a. (Andy Mepham + Graham West solo June 2005) Step into the chimney and make a delicate move to gain the top. A tree stump or deep hole aids the exit This is a good 4a as it is quite committing for its grade, good fun and far better than it looks.

Lambrequin Wall

Located to the right of the chimney and leads to the dirty gully.This small wall is the gem of the whole crag. It seems to remain dry throughout and gets harder as you move towards the right. The rock is good but a lot of traffic may see off the flakes without treatment. The finish is flat and solid.

The bulging corner has yet to be climbed probably 6a/6b

Lambrequin 6a NS NR (Graham West July 2005). Starts about a foot right from the arete. Move to a break at head height via a slot or undercut and go straight for a horizontal horseshoe flake. Get your balance and take a pair of poor stals above and mantle to finish.

The climb to the right takes the horizontal break and small flakes above but has not yet been completed.

Black Sheep Wall

Immediately right of the gully where the ground slopes away is a small roof.

Escendo Nuptialis in Skye 4a (Andy Mepham Graham West May 2005 solo) Start about a yard right from the gully as far down the slope as you can. Go straight up and immediately slap the arete out left, looking down your feet should be under the overhang, make the crux move to a sloping edge with your feet and stand up to take the arete further up and a good top ledge, again feet up to another step on the arete and mantle to a standing position. A lot more difficult than it looks and very good fun. This climb should be completed clean without using any part of the gully and undergrowth at the top.

Niger Ovis of Escendo Universitas 4b (Andy Mepham solo May 2005) Start almost as for Escendo but slightly right a foot or so There is a couple of ways of doing this and a couple of finishes but basically use a double finger hole out right to layback and walk up to a break and a large pinch out to the left for balance or make a single move up to the ledge above. Finish direct.

Seasick Acid Duck 5a (Andy Mepham Graham West May 2005 solo) Start as for Niger Ovis of escendo universitas and take the finishing hold, then traverse out right using the top lip, either finish just right of the stump or continue for a slightly harder finish to a large foot hold below found well out over the roof and a difficult mantle finish via a right step.

Stop press :-

The roof direct has since been climbed by Robin Mazinke July 2005. He did 3 variations, 2 dynos and one static. 6a,6a, 5c. If my memory serves me right..........

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