I must admit we did a lot of soul searching before deciding to publish the existence of a new Southern Sandstone crag. The main reason is that the rock is of poor quality and needs treatment. Having said that the boulders are in better condition and are great fun to play on. The other reason is if we tell it as it is then the rock will get the proper respect it deserves!

General:- Recently discover by Ben Gilbert in early 2003. This small outcrop is about 100 yards in length and faces north at the top of a small grassy hill on the side of a wood. As the crag faces north one would expect the rock to be very wet but it is shielded by the woods and a fortunate position, the only problem is the rock has not received much weathering to harden the surface except for the boulders. The crag is split into two sections, on the left an amphitheatre of poor but steep rock standing about 15ft high and on the right (just out of sight ) a selection of boulders and a couple of small walls of slightly better quality rock. The boulders are of much harder sandstone and hold most interest. We suspect that there has been climbing here before possibly by the scouts but back in the forties or fifties judging by the graffiti left on the main wall. After asking everybody we knew on the sandstone scene we think this crag has probably never been mentioned or reported in recent years. The bottom line is that this crag is not worth visiting in it's own right as the rock is of such poor quality, but if you were doing the 1066 walk a quick detour to have a quick boulder would be the best excuse to check out Tent Hill. The rock needs serious treatment before regular use and it is up to the individual climber to realise this before climbing in this stunning, secluded beautiful place.

Access:-  It is unknown if this rock is on private land and efforts to find out have failed. Locally the area is known as Tent Hill probably because scouts used to camp on the side of the hill but further than that access details are not know therefore anybody visiting this area should be aware that the land may belong to somebody with the obvious implications. This article does not imply any access rights.

Location:- If you do not know where this crag is you will not find it, this is probably the reason that it has stayed hidden for so long. I have no exact description as yet but shortly we will be adding the grid ref. But if you are on the 1066 walk (public footpath) around Ashburnham Place and head east off a small road along the back of a large house and barn you will find yourself at the top of a small hill and without knowing it looking straight at the crag. Across the valley is a strange looking dead tree (see photo) this is a good landmark and almost exactly marks the spot. Cross the stile and head down to the stream and a beautiful wooden bridge. Over the bridge and turn left along the bottom of the valley and the crag is up on the right after about 10 minutes walk (possibly on private land, permission may be required).

These picture show most of the crag as viewed from left to right. Just click on the photos to enlarge.

The Climbs :- Described as if Looking up from the bottom of the hill and starting on the right at the boulder area, now call the Highly Flammable area.

The first large sloping boulder on the extreme right gives:- 

Highly Flammable - Adrian Paisey 5c A boulder problem on better rock than all of the previous. Take the left arête of the biggest bolder. Traverse diagonally rightwards on sloping handholds, to gain a good slot in the top of the wall. use this to gain a mantelshelf finish.  This can easily be climbed without damaging the rock. 

Long Mans Arete - Adrian Paisey 5b if your 6'4'', Otherwise 6b? The right arete of the same boulder. Start on the end. Use a high small crimp for the left hand combined with the sloping arete for the right hand to rock up on to the end of the nose. finish with ease (but mind the brambles!) Hard for the short, but great if you can do it!  This can easily be climbed without damaging the rock. 

Easy Effort 3a - Behind this sloping boulder is a smaller boulder with a simple mantelshelf.   This can easily be climbed without damaging the rock. 

Behind this boulder and a little left is a dirty wall / corner, if cleaned may produce another climb or two. The finish is covered in grass and brambles and jumping off is an easier alternative as the floor is soft and covered in dried leaves, but is much lower than the start of the climb, air miles can be gained here. This can easily be climbed without damaging the rock. 

NooNoo - Andy Mepham 4a. Moving left towards the centre of the crag into the NooNoo area is a small wall at the back under a tree. Go straight up the middle and avoid the root handle bar to keep the grade. Short and grubby but enjoyable. This can easily be climbed without damaging the rock. 

Move to the left of the Noo Noo rock to a fine arete and wall on the left.

In a Different Place -Grade 6a  Graham the Shelf West.     (due to the conditions). If it was on clean, solid sandstone I would opt for 5c.Description: Climb the obvious short arete beneath the large Beech tree and to the left of the cave, at the left hand end of the bouldering area. Much harder than it looks! (ED: Despite the pictures Graham did a good first ascent)

Now moving around the corner and down a small slope, ones eyes are immediately drawn to a large wall with a scout emblem carved in the middle. This is the start of Ben's Gully. Beware the rock here is very, very soft in places.

A Walk in the Park - 6a  The inspiring arête to the left of the carved scout sign. following the obvious flake, use good holds to gain a small (but increasing) two finger pocket. Use this in combination with the thin flake to gain good slots above. Trend Left slightly and finish direct. Take some long static to set up a belay between two trees. The feet are not what they seem!!! (Adrian) --- This is one climb I wished I had never tried, though with treatment it could be good, it reminded me of Portcullis at Eridge....The break at 3/4 height is so dirty and sandy, I managed to cheat the climb as the finish is quite good above the poor break. (Andy)

Moving left around the corner is a large crack.

The Tent Hill Boogie - Ben, 5a (But you need to climb 5c?)  The big crack to the left of A Walk in the Park. Start in the chimney proper, back and foot upwards to gain a good stance. Finish up the crack with difficulty on Interesting? rock to gain a awkward finish. Worth the effort!!

Colonel Muster 5b- Take the wall left of TTHB slightly to the right and a good undercut, move slightly left and stand below a poor/impossible finish. Again a cheat finished was used to surmount the mud and crud at the top (Andy).

Moving left there is more but soft !

Thanks to Ben + his girlfriend, Adrian and Graham for finding and checking out this crag.

Map and Directions Just Added ....  Go to this page for more details.

Please leave your comments on the Southern Sandstone Forum. Thanks Andy......