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located in the car park at the Castle Inn, now you knew that didn't you. Turn off the A55 heading east to Old Colwyn and carry on the A547 and keep going to the right and head for Llysfaen, again turn right up a hill and past a quarry entrance on the right, keep going  and take the second right and within a few hundred yards
you should see the Castle Inn on the left. Pull up the steep slope into the car
park and belay from the sun roof. Now this quarry was bolted in the early 90's
with resin bolts and sports about 10 climbs for which I found about 4 quite acceptable
and well worth a stop off but not worth making a pilgrimage too. When we were
there in July 2000 there were five dumped stolen cars in the car park, so if you
want any spares for the old car then this is the place. Again this is not a
place to make a beeline for, but a place to go if it's raining in the Llanberis
pass or Tremadog , it is within easy reach of both for those of us who are
mobile.
The main climbing area is dominated by route 1, 2 and 3 with Cross winds on the right and School Mam on the left.
Route 1, 5 / 5a Take a long hike of about 3ft from the tarmac onto the grass and make a difficult start for it's grade just to the right of a small roof, now bear left to take the arête and to what turns out to be a pleasant outing via 3 bolts.
Route 2, 6a/5b Just 10ft left, around the corner from route 1 is route 2. An easy start for it's grade but again a fine route taking the small roof and following a white line to the summit via an interesting stal formation after a difficult stretch using a strange looking nodule. Worth a star.
Route 3 6c/6a Just 5ft ish left of route 2 is route 3. A stiff little number with a couple of technical moves halfway with an easier finish. Start below a small roof and easy start then take a hard strong move to the second bolt bearing a few inches right, a slappy layback to a good hold out on the left (ok if your tall) and an easy finish. There are a few false paths which are liberally laced with chalk so beware and check your line. Probably the best route here. Worth a star.
School Mam 6b/5c. Further left and just behind and to the left of a bush is school mam. This must have been the easiest 6b/5c I have ever done but recent rock falls may have something to do with that. What looks a crap route starting in the mud and muck near the bush turns out to be a surprising little gem with a slightly difficult move halfway. Probably 5+/5a. Finale 5/4c. Move 5ft left ish of School Mam and take the obvious line from what looks like a grotty route but again surprisingly good. Worth a go, try it !! |
