Cheddar Gorge.

Note:- Latest and up-to-date info can be found at the end of this page.

Location:-  Cheddar Gorge is not very difficult to find as it is a hot spot for tourists in both summer and winter with the signposts to Cheddar starting from about ten miles out. Cheddar Gorge, the largest gorge in the UK, is about equal distance between Weston-Super-Mare and Shepton Mallet (approx 12 miles). MAP   Follow the A371 in either direction to Cheddar and follow the signs to the Gorge via the B3135, from this direction the caves and other tourist attractions can be seen either side of the pass as you slowly gain height and zigzag up Cliff Road and into the gorge. Parking is fairly easy in winter and all the gorge is within easy walking distance of the pub and the free main car park.      

General Info:- Climbing is only allowed in the winter months mainly because of the possibility of loose rock falling onto passing grockels, rumour has it that there are some negotiations underway to allow all year access to some of the crag but as far as we know to date (Nov 2003) there is still a total summer ban. Parking is fairly easy but beware of falling rock, particularly under Coronation Street where it is possible to belay from the sun roof. Parking seems to be free in winter, despite signs to the country. Discreet, one off, overnight camping/bivvy also seems to be tolerated but is technically not allowed. A proper camp site which is open for most of November is situated at the top end of the gorge and has a good web site with all the details you may need.  More details about Cheddar gorge can be found at the Cheddar Caves web site.

The Climbs:- Possibly not the best rock in the world but one of the best locations you can find within easy reach of London. The towering walls of Coronation Street draw tens of prospective climbers every dry and sometimes wet winter weekend, but most of them end up on the south facing side of the gorge staring over at the few who got out of their beds just that little bit earlier. The rock has its critics as it is a bit friable, but on the plus side it dries very quickly and is in one of the most amazing areas you could imagine. Arrive at night and bivvying below the dark towering limestone cliffs to awake in a remote French or Spanish valley, only one thing gives it away, the weather.

Coronation Street E1 5b (400ft trad 4 1/2 hours 5/6 pitch. Good selection of Cams, wires and nuts ) Corry faces north halfway up cliff road, directly above a car parking area and opposite a small grassy section is the famous line of Coronation Street. The climb is usually quoted as six pitches but it is highly recommended that you do the first two pitches in one, this saves time and effort. A pair of 55m, 9mm ropes should do the job nicely. (Note:- Because of the summer ban, British bad weather, available daylight and the fact that this climb is on most peoples hit list it is important to be there very early, an 8am start is not out of the question as most people seem to arrive just before 9am. It is also suggested that more than two pairs is pushing the time window to it's limit.)  

 Pitch 1 and 2. 4b (150ft). Tenuously climb the obvious vertical crumbling and vegetated crack line which is difficult to start. The quality of the climbing and protection improves as height is gained though some of the nice looking holds do move a little! Just below the belay is a nice overhanging flake which almost makes the first pitch worthwhile. Move up to a cluster of tat and make a good belay.

Pitch 3. 5b (70ft). The climb really gets going now as the rock quality improves. Climb with ease to a roof and pull up and over the left side with difficulty, note the polished footholds. Follow the corner as it moves up left with bridging and good handholds but poor slippery footholds, follow the corner with difficulty until a large ledge is reached, move up right to a good belay and tat.

Pitch 4. 5a (50ft).Probably the most famous pitch but certainly not the hardest. Move directly up a steep but good crack (about 15ft) directly above the belay to a peg and tat. Have a good rest and place a cam out left. Traverse left on what looks like good hand holds under a roof and look for a couple of well worn and shiny foot holds, hand traverse across the shield, disregarding a loose flake lying in the break. Move out left and around the now crumbling  bulge at the end of the horizontal break to a peg belay or four. Please note that just in front of the hanging belay and between the 3 left pegs and the one on the right is a very loose, large block (Nov 2003). 

Pitch 5. 5b (70ft). Immediately above the exit to the shield is a steep groove which starts of easily and progressively gets harder above a difficult bulge. Keep in the groove to find good sized hand jams on an ever increasing sustained and difficult balancing act between bridging and hand jamming. A short rest can be had just before reaching a ledge out right and another good belay with pegs and good gear. This pitch is undoubtedly the crux pitch and should finish off anybody who found any of the last pitches difficult.

  Pitch 6 4c (70ft). Move up right just a few feet for the last difficult move on to a small lip and high step to easy ground but with good exposure with the road below still visible between your feet. Take care not to dislodge some loose rock as the climb finishes in clumps of grass and ivy. Belay from trees which are within easy reach. 

There are two ways back down from the top of the climbs but the easiest is go straight up through the shrubs and find a the tourist path which leads west and down to the Jacobs Ladder steps almost at the entrance to the pub (10 mins), there is also a scramble down the west side but the pub way is more interesting.

Please click on the photos to enlarge.

From Martin Torbett.