Looking down on Wen Slab Zawn. Click on photos
Looking back from the Wen Slab Zawn.
Wen Crack HVS 4c,5a.... Take the large crack which can be reached from the belay point found at the end of a dodgy path. Ab down and swing in left to the 2nd belay point if started from sea level on a calm day. Climb up on easy ground in a massive crack which is sometimes a bit wet to a large ledge where an easy hanging belay can be setup. Climb out left from the ledge and go straight up until about 20ft from the top and bear left to a slightly difficult mantelshelf and finish belay, or go straight up on suspect rock for a dirty finish. Photo on the right shows a climber making his way up from the last belay point to the 5a exit on the left.
Looking down from the large ledge of Wen.
Dream Of White Horses HVS One of the classic Gogarth HVS climbs.
The start of white horses. The shorter start can be seen in the niche half way up the photo.
There is a lower start closer to sea.
Climber on pitch 2 (from short start) making his way to the cement shute. Note the crack Wen HVS 5a. The dream of white horses. (HVS) (In my view) An easy HVS with varing quality of rock but the atmosphere and exposed make up for this. Start with an abseil from a block above and to the left of the short start.The block is identified by numerous slings and ropes. I must admit we did not trust them (Sept 99) and used our own slings. Abbing straight down leads you well to the left of the start and a tenious traverse of about 25ft to an obvious stance for the start of the first pitch. Follow an obvious line traversing down and left to the Wen crack and make a good belay. There is plenty of places to put numerous gear. From this belay move up and left on an obvious flakey ledge. I found a couple of friends (2.5 and 3) fitted well. Continue up and left to a chossey vertical easy crack and descend to it,s finish and move left to the cement shute to find a rusty but good belay. Again this hanging belay takes loads of gear and is very comfortable. The second can now follow through to the end of the climb. This is an obvious traverse to the exit behind a small buldge.Don,t take what looks like the first exit just before the buldge, it's a bit harder and is very greasy. An exit up the cement shute is possable if a quick escape is required (rain etc). The traverse is marked by an awkard move across/around a small buldge but is short lived with loads of gear placements. Watch out for the clump of grass under foot and wet rock. When you reach the exit, climb directly up to a good belay around a large block. The exit forces your rope to drag around the buldge hence a nice free running rope is required.
The cement shute belay. Note the rope going up to the chossy easy vertical crack.
(Left) The final travers can be seen to the left of the climbers. Finishing just to the top left of the photo.
Looning around on the great hanging belay.
The finish of D of WH.
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Gogarth
