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The Upper Tier and Central Park Area.
Starting on foot from the top of
the South Stack lighthouse (South Stack Rd) path shown in the photo on the
right, go
across the road to a cement road blocked by a metal barrier. Follow this
road for a few minutes toward a microwave radio relay station and all it's
antenna's. Move out left onto a narrow path
avoiding the small marsh and head for the ridge overlooking the vista
shown in the title photo. Head down a path to a small climb down a gully
on to a path which has suffered from recent subsidence, this pathway
decreases in size as it reaches the base of The Strand
and the central park area.
Care should be taken so as to not step on any Adders here as it's a long
way back to the car with a snake bite. I say this with personal
experience of narrowly missing a cuddly little chap by about 2 inches.
After a careful step around a small boulder you should just below
"Central Park" and off to your left towards the corner is
"The Strand".
View
from the base of the Strand.
One thing to consider
when climbing in this area is that the walkouts are quite long and steep
and may require an extra bit of gear for belaying, The first time a
climber climbs Central Park he/she usually remarks that the climb was
fine but the walkout was gripping.
This area holds more
than a few good climbs (1000,s) with possibly the Strand being one of
the most popular.
Looking from
left to right
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Park
Lane
E1 5b 5b 4b
The
Strand
E2 5b 4c

Hyde
Park
E4 5b6b
Manor
Park
E4 5c 6a. 
Central Park
4c 5a

Street
Surviver E2 5a 5c
Times Square
HVS 5a 5a 
Tequila
Sunrise E2 5b 5c
Fifth Av
E1 5b
5c 
Shagorado
E3
5c
Shag Rock
5a
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Looking
up from the base of Central Park. This
climb starts precariously on poor thin rock just by an old unusable
belay peg. Move out carefully left then right to follow an obvious line
to the base of the wide vertical crack running to the top. Gear
protection is not to good at 2/3rds height on the first pitch but the
climbing is fairly easy and a very good stake belay is reached with
ease. The crack is far more pleasurable and the in situ gear
reached without strain via a couple of hard ish moves to a good
finish.

Climbers on The Strand and Park
Lane. (Photo slightly
on the tilt which does not show how vertical this section is )
The Strand E2 5b 4c. Up
to the crack as it gets thinner and stronger to a belay. Easy finish up
the last 20ft to the grass. Lots of people have their moment at the top
of this crack.
Park Lane E4 5b 5b 4b.
Start from the left side of The Strand.
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