The Upper Tier and Central Park Area.

Starting on foot from the top of the South Stack lighthouse (South Stack Rd) path shown in the photo on the walkin1.jpg (52330 bytes) right, go acrosssouthstack.jpg (113933 bytes) the road to a cement road blocked by a metal barrier. Follow this road for a few minutes toward a microwave radio relay station and all it's antenna's.     Move out left onto a narrow path avoiding the small marsh and head for the ridge overlooking the vista shown in the title photo. Head down a path to a small climb down a gully on to a path which has suffered from recent subsidence, this pathway decreases in size as it reaches the base of The Strand and the central park area. Care should be taken so as to not step on any Adders here as it's a long way back to the car with a snake bite. I say this with personal experience of narrowly missing a cuddly little chap by about 2 inches. After a careful step around a small boulder you should just below "Central Park" and off to your left towards the corner is "The Strand".

shagview.jpg (106433 bytes)View from the base of the Strand.

 

One thing to consider when climbing in this area is that the walkouts are quite long and steep and may require an extra bit of gear for belaying, The first time a climber climbs Central Park he/she usually remarks that the climb was fine but the walkout was gripping.

This area holds more than a few good climbs (1000,s) with possibly the Strand being one of the most popular.

 Looking from left to right

Park Lane                E1 5b 5b 4b

The Strand               E2 5b 4c

Hyde Park                E4 5b6b

Manor Park              E4 5c 6a.

Central Park             4c 5a

Street Surviver         E2 5a 5c

Times Square           HVS 5a 5a

Tequila Sunrise        E2 5b 5c

Fifth Av                     E1 5b 5c

Shagorado                E3 5c

Shag Rock                 5a

 

centralpark.jpg (492713 bytes)Looking up from the base of Central Park. This climb starts precariously on poor thin rock just by an old unusable belay peg. Move out carefully left then right to follow an obvious line to the base of the wide vertical crack running to the top. Gear protection is not to good at 2/3rds height on the first pitch but the climbing is fairly easy and a very good stake belay is reached with ease.  The crack is far more pleasurable and the in situ gear reached without strain via a couple of hard ish moves to a good finish. 

 strand.jpg (178313 bytes)

Climbers on The Strand and Park Lane.  (Photo slightly on the tilt which does not show how vertical this section is )

The Strand E2 5b 4c. Up to the crack as it gets thinner and stronger to a belay. Easy finish up the last 20ft to the grass. Lots of people have their moment at the top of this crack.

Park Lane E4 5b 5b 4b. Start from the left side of The Strand.