click on the photo's to enlarge.                                  Visited August 2001

Hedbury Quarry is a 1/4 of a mile west of Dancing Ledge and is best reached via Tom's Field at Langton Matravers on the B3069 approx 5 miles west of Swanage.Walking down from Toms field across the Priest way turn westwards just before descending down to Dancing Ledge. At the top of the Quarry you should see an old cannon on the rock below. Drop down a path on the west side of the quarry and directly face the main east wall which lies under the main path to Dancing Ledge. Link to map of the area 

A great little crag which has been overlooked for so long. The climbs are all steep and pumpy and are about 40ft high and bolted. The rock gets the sun most of the day and dries fairly quickly but some of the flowstone is a bit slippery and takes a bit of getting used to. Another good feature, Hedbury is well shielded from bad weather and well worth a visit anytime, this crag should keep most mid-range climbers amused for several hours. 

The best climbs are all to be had on the east wall which holds fifteen plus climbs from 4c to 6c/7c. The main feature is a large flowstone which runs down the center.  Probably Jumping the Gun E2 5b ..6b is the best and longest and is certainly very pumpy for it's grade.  

       Climbs described in order from the left.......

Tethered By Gravity VS 4c .. 4 The first climb on the east wall. Situated on the left as you look at the wall. A good warm-up and a couple of starts a few feet apart but no real crux. Good fun! 4 Bolts.

Goddam Sexual Tyrannosaurus VS 5a ..4+ A few feet to the right of Tethered. A bit more grunt but very similar. The crux is near the top.  3 Bolts.

Ammonitmare E2 5b..6a A good route with the crux near the start. 4 Bolts

Of Mice and Men.  E2 5c .. 6a+  Tough at the top. 4 Bolts.

Bad Day. E3 6a ..6c  Start slightly to the left of the first bolt and clip the first two bolts with difficulty from an undercut then a crimp, make your way to a good sloping ledge and then work right to the finish of  Moves of The Masses. Definitely an E3 6a start, love it !!   4 Bolts.

Moves for the Masses. E2 5c .. 6a+ This starts up the middle of the flowstone which can be a little slippery. Gets tough under the roof as you move out left. Fully Recommended... 3 Bolts.

Hangs Like a Dead Man. E2 5b .. 6b. Steep. 4 Bolts.

Jumping The Gun. E2 5b .. 6b. The longest route on the block with a difficult first bolt. Move along left with pump, unless you find the small crimps for your feet. Follow the little roofs out left and up, no crux as all the moves are of similar strength. Strong but good....  Fully Recommended... 5 Bolts.

Into the Realm of Radical Cool. E6 6b .. 7b+ The direct finish to the last route.5 Bolts.

Mouth Breather. E5 6c .. 7c Hard with the crux half way.4 Bolts.

Sureshot. E3 6a ..6c. The start of the black stuff, wet wet wet.

Cinderella's Big Score. E5 6b .. 7b. Swim the waterfall on the right.         4 Bolts.

Glue Crux Clan. E3 6a ..6c The other side of the mound. A good route.   4 Bolts.

Produced by Fred Quimby E2 6a ..6a+    An easier start to the last route but same crux. 4 Bolts.

Dons Long Gone. E3 6a .. 6b+ The crack up the roof.   3 Bolts.

Mindless Optimism. E2 6a .. 6b+ The arête, worth a look.  3 Bolts.