Lundy.             Three miles long and half a mile wide, Lundy holds the Atlantic Ocean back from the Bristol channel, just ten miles off the coast of North Devon. This island of outstanding beauty awaits the adventurer who wants to stray just a little bit further than the average climber, for almost every climb is an adventure. Owned by the National Trust for the nation.

General:- Is is easy to go over the top with flowery descriptions of Lundy, put simply it is a very special place which draws hundreds of summer visitors every week. There is just one little catch, the weather. Look west and the nearest land is America some 3000 miles away, every breath of wind has plenty of time to gather strength over miles of empty sea before reaching the Island.         Lundy can be reached by air or by boat via a small airstrip and helicopter pad or a tiny harbour. (Map)  A small ship, the MS Oldenburg supplies the island from the port of Ilfracombe on the north Devon coast. There are several accommodation options including, camping, bunk house or even a Georgian Villa. The best way to find out more details is to go to the Lundy Island web site at the following Link. Booking a year in advance is well advised especially for the bunk house though less notice is required for camping for which there are about twenty pitches located just a few seconds from the Marisco Tavern. The boat trip takes about 2 hours depending on the tide and wind, if the sea is too rough for the crossing passengers are transferred to a helicopter which costs a little more and a weight restriction comes into force.

The Climbing :- The best areas are mainly westerly facing and tend to dry very quickly but do face into the predominately westerly winds which can be viscous. The rock is mainly Teriary Granite but there is some crumbly sedimentary dross on the southern end of the island. The first time visitor will probably spend some time searching for the start to a lot of the climbs as they are a little difficult to find so a little research beforehand will pay dividends. Usually the boat arrives sometime in the afternoon leaving an hour or so for a quick route, most folk make for "Landing Craft Bay" which can get a little crowded especially on the last day of the week when almost everybody has the same idea of getting that last few minutes of climbing in before the boat arrives, it is not unusual to see climbers walking down to the boat whilst still wearing a full rack of gear. The shop and restaurant are open at slightly inconvenient times, a quick visit to the shop to stock up on essential supplies on arrival is essential if you want to be first on the rock and last back. The  shop opens late and the restaurant closes early, usually before dusk in the summertime. A good full rack and a pair of 9mm ropes is de rigour, also a good long ab rope is a must, even the "landing Craft" area needs a good long rope! The Climbers Club guide is also essential and available in the shop if you cannot get one at home.The climbing log in the Marisco Tavern makes interesting reading over a pint at the end of the day ! The grades are fairly soft but probably take into account the atmosphere and the fact that a rescue could be a long time coming! There is so much to do with new routes awaiting, yep something here for everybody from VDiff to E7 or even some bouldering.  

Essential info:- There are some bird restrictions, usually between April and July in the breeding season, there is also a bird ringing season using the huge bird traps which can be seen on the east side of the Island. Details  can be checked up by contacting the Island warden whose e-mail address can be located from the following Link.    Some climbs are tidal with only an hour or so of access, this can only add flavour to climbs like "American Beauty" but should be taken  fully into account. Tide tables are available at some of the shops in Ilfracombe or from these links. Accurate timing should not be underestimated! Try the Climbers Club Tide Table or the BBC Lundy Weather and Tide page.  There are a large number of old pegs and bolts from a previous period, these should be avoided unless you have the latest 100% info. Some of this hardware is some 20 years old.

Lundy Guide:-  Climbers Club Guide with on-line supplement (revised Spring 2003).

Lundy Tide Table:- Climbers club interactive Tide Table

Lundy Weather and Tide Tables:-  Useful BBC tide and weather page.

Baggy Cam:- Useful Web Cam near Baggy Point.

Selected Clinbs

The Devil's Limekiln. The South West tip of the island is a little bit more picturesque around the Devil's Limekilm which is just past the duck pond a few minutes walk south from Beacon Hill. This huge blowhole is about 250 to 300ft deep and can be reached via an ab on its south side.  Climbing in the Kiln is said to be poor, on dirty wet rock which is guaranteed to add to the atmosphere! This is serious stuff and not to be tackled lightly!

The Exorcist E3 5b,5a and The Antichrist E6 5b,6a. These two serious routes take the north facing wall on the left side is The Exorcist and on the right hand side The Antichrist? A pre placed rope to aid your finish is suggested!!

Landing Craft Bay. A very popular area located just north west of the Old Lighthouse. Walk past the lighthouse on the well trodden footpath for about 200 to 300 yards, turn left to find a small path which leads down to a grassy slope and a set of small boulders suitable for an ab. There are two exits to the ab depending on which part of Landing Craft bay you want to go to, either go down the grassy slope on the north side for climbs like Centaur and Road Runner or exit down the south side for climbs like Formula One and Indy 500. The descent to the Formula One area ends up on a ridge which can get a little wet at high tide but the climbs are not affected by the tide. 

Formula One HVS 5a. (135ft). Quite hard for its grade especially as the rock seems a little slippery or shiny. Climb the arête to a rightward sloping crack and follow this to the small roof/overlap, quite sustained. Difficult moves over the roof to another roof/overlap a few feet above then move out right to a fantastic layback and belay with a few mid size wires.         There will undoubtedly be a queue!  

The Indy 500 E1 4a. 5b. (125ft). There is a grassy slope leading up to the bottom of an obvious vertical crack just below a ledge. Climb the slope and gain the rock below the ledge, climb to the ledge and belay with good gear on the easy ledge. (Note:- The original route belays below the ledge.). Gaining the ledge makes for a more interesting climb as the first part of the pitch is a bit poor. Then up the crack on easy but very enjoyable 5b moves to what looks like a difficult, sustained wall to find good holds just where you need them but still maintaining the 5b status. A must!

Grand Falls Zawn and American Beauty. Taking the west coastal footpath north from the Lighthouse and just before the Threequarter Wall which is as the name suggests cuts across east to west at about 2/3rds distance from the southerly tip of the Island. From here turn left/west past an outcrop which is on your right (north) and down a grassy slope to the northern side of a large bay, The Grand Falls Zawn. Keep going down this slope until it gets difficult, it is possible to scramble down this slope but an abseil rope on a suitable block is recommended. Tide timing is of the up most importance as American Beauty can only be reached at Low Tide! On reaching the bottom climb across eastwards and down to a large zawn/cave, cross the front of the huge cave to the wall on the right. This sheltered cave is the home to several large, no very large seals who are not that happy to meet humans. Hiding behind your partner and talking in doggy language, like, "nice boy" seems to work.

 American Beauty E1 4c,5a,4c. (300ft)  1st Pitch (100ft). From the base of the cave climb the greasy and poorly protected slab on the right via a series of vertical cracks, trend right with more interest to a large block (see photo) and massive ledge for a very good belay.  2nd pitch (145ft). From the ledge move out left a touch to find a thin crack which leads to a small ledge. From here make for the overlap via another thin crack and protection under the overlap. Move right under the overlap with great exposure, to find good jugs and a surprisingly easy move up and over the overlap. Move up left across the wall to a good belay. 3rd Pitch (50ft).  Take the superb crack on sustained but good holds with fabulous exposure factor! to an easy belay above. Walk off with care, possible belay to exit!

The Devil's Slide. The most famous area on the Island and one that certainly attracts a lot of attention from climbers of all grades for which most want to say that they have climbed the Devil's Slide on Lundy. This truly amazing slab is just a few hundred yards north of the Threequarter Wall and is easy to find and get access to but is sometimes very busy. The slab looks worse than it is with large black streaks running down the left hand side but on inspection all fears are dispersed as the rock is of good quality and gives exceptional friction.   Access to the slab is via a grassy slope and path on the southerly side past where most of the climbs end. Abseil from an obvious block down about 150ft to a large ledge below.  Care should be taken in rough weather as the ledge can be engulfed in raging seas. In calm weather one can be enticed to take a leisurely swim and explore the area from sea level whilst waiting your turn on the slide, beware as there is a wicked little current that can drag you unwittingly out, it takes a good swimmer to overcome this! 

The Devil's Slide 4a HS.  Pitch 1. (60ft) From the superb ledge or debating forum climb the right hand side of the slab keeping well away from the right hand side, fairly easy climbing but getting used to the friction may take some time. Belay from a good ledge. Pitch 2. (100ft) Still keeping the same line move up to slightly harder climbing and a block on the right (most peoples preferred belay point) another belay can be had up left but needs more care with nut placement but keeps the true line. Pitch 3. (70-80ft).Still keeping off the right hand side, some folk tend to stray to the easier ground to the right but is really off route, the climbing is quite difficult and relies on good friction over a raised section. continue to the wall above, from here traverse left with commitment and increasing difficulty across the top of the slab, belay in the corner. Pitch 4. (65ft) Up the large green blocks above for a good finish.   Alternate Routes:- Before the big traverse a good exit is gained by either going straight up the wall at HVS or traversing up and around right at about 50 ft above the path on green but good solid rock, probably about VS, this makes a good but serious exit for a solo if you don't fancy the prospects of failure on the left traverse. Another exit is to traverse right to very easy ground and a path.

Satan's Slip E1 5a. (340ft). Pitch 1. (140ft) . Another highly recommended route. Start from about the centre of the ledge on very easy ground placing small wires or the occasional small cam in interesting and creative positions, get used to the friction and exposure and make for the easy ledge in the middle of the slab via thin cracks and small nodules. Good belay at a good ledge. Pitch 2. (150ft). Another good long pitch, only 5a you might say but requires some head work as it is a bit low in gear placements but high on friction and the occasional 1/2 inch nodule, remember this is a slab! From the ledge move into the centre and make for the black stains slightly over to the left, keep going up and a little left to make the corner of the overlap, either belay here or keep moving up another few feet to a flake and easy belay. Pitch 3. (30-50 ft ) Exit easily up the blocks above.

Albion VS 4c. (350ft). Pitch 1. This takes the left hand side of the slid. Climb up the left side to a good belay at just over 100ft. Pitch 2 (80ft). Move onto the slab and make for a good belay beneath the overlap. Pitch 3 (120ft). This is where the climbing gets harder, continue up and under the overlap following it all the way, sustained and committing for a 4c and sometimes gets the better of a climber pushing his grade. Find a good flake belay on the left. Pitch 4.Finish as for Satan's Slip up and over the blocks.

The Fortress. From Satan's Slip area the Fortress can easily be seen. If you look hard in the photo above you can just see two climbers on Valhalla VS 4b. which takes the central sustained groove.

Other areas of interest:- Immaculate Slabs. Just before the halfway wall on the left is what is called the Cheeses. Walk down (edging southwards) a path down under the lowest Cheese until a niche for a rucksack or two is reached just before the path runs out, gear up and scramble around the corner to a good 120-140 ft blind abseil. Immaculate Slab HVS 5a.  Send your mate down first to setup a belay on the left hand end of a ledge below the distinctive main slab which is marked in the centre by a very thin crack. At the left  hand end of the smelly ledge, move up left over a small delicate bulge to an even smellier and greasy ground and the main slab where protection becomes a lot easier, follow the left hand side of the slab to another bulge and easier ground and the original belay point.

More soon or add your own photos and route descriptions.     

Please click on the photos to enlarge.

Thanks to Adrian Paisey who helped make these pages possible.