General:- For me Millstone Edge holds great memories as it is the first crag I did any real climbing. What I remember most was sore toes and skinless knuckles but this did not detract from the first great day I had climbing at Millstone many years ago. Things have moved on and I have learned to use less energy and loose less skin but Millstone still leaves me with a great sense of achievement every time I return.

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Location:-  Take the road A625 out of Sheffield to Hathersage and just before you drop down the hill just a mile or two from Hathersage there is a good "pay and display" car park with a large sign saying Surprise View. Nip in here and buy a ticket and walk north west from the car park along a path  (about 5 minutes or less) to a fence which marks the edge of the quarry.  There is a couple of easy ways down from here. The old quarry entrance which was blocked some years ago runs along the bottom of the crag. From here you can see out across to Stanage some ten miles or so away. Millstone is a great when the weather is good but it can get very windy even on a summers evening but that is also a superb time to visit Millstone as the crag almost faces due west and catches the evening sun a treat. 

The Climbing :- I suppose the rock can best be described as classic gritstone on good steep rock reaching some 80 or 90 feet high. The finishes are said to be a bit loose but compared to Swanage they are not troublesome. There are a few belay stakes at the top which are very useful though I must admit to having used the fence in the distant past.  Even though this is an old quarry with the usual thin vertical cracks that are the hallmark of this type of crag there is also some surprisingly good climbing of all sorts with steep arêtes and fine corner, some with plenty of gear placements and some without any. There is also a good range of grades from Diff to E6, 4a to 6b, with plenty of good mid range classics to entertain even an old climber like me.

Areas:- As you walk in from the road end the crag starts at the Keyhole Cave area and progresses along the base of the quarry. Each area seems to have its own characteristic left by the Quarrymen, thanks guys. Basically there are eight sections for which some data is available below.

Enter by dropping down a grubby path to base of the quarry at the southerly end. The first section is the Hells Bells area.

Hells Bells:- A  pleasant introduction to Millstone and a good place to get used to the rock if you are not a pro. A couple of VDiff's and a couple of Hard Severs rounded off with an E5 6B up the right arete.

Keyhole Cave:- Millstone now starts to show its muscle with Keyhole Cave. Some difficult starts lead to some excellent sustained climbing up the main wall where there is a large sandy cave from which the crag gets its name. The crag has easier pitches at either end though The Whore HVS 5b is still a tough little number. The easier climbs on the right finish on loose rock.

London Wall. This where Millstone starts to show its quality, with the famous London Wall dominating right side of the quarry and classics such as The Mall Vs 4c and Great Portland Street HVS 5b on the opposing wall.    Please click on the photos to enlarge.

(Far Left) Bond Street.

 (Left and below) Great Portland Road. 

(Right) London Wall E5 6a.

The Embankment. Finger cracking good! I am told this is where everybody comes to learn how to jam with Embankement2 VS 4c, being the most painful toe jamming crack this side of the pond. Looking at the wall on the right is Embankment 4 E1 5b a nice long pitch up a thin crack line and then out right to take the obvious path up the next crack.

Just left of E4 is Time for Tea for which there is four exit routes. Climb the crack straight up which gets thinner and thinner just past a difficult move, where the crack finishes either take one of four routes. Traverse left and slightly up on small delicate ledges with no gear to almost the exit of Embankment 3 or exit up to the tree above, both require a little nerve and a good long gate and go at about E3 5c, or Go straight up For an E4 6a finish and Tea For Two, or traverse out right and make for the easier exit up Embankment 4 and the Original Time for Tea E1 5b.  All these routes are exception in character and come highly recommended.

To the left of the wall is the famous Embankment 2 VS 4c. Climb quickly up the two cracks using either for numerous gear placements. The wide crack on the left can be quite difficult for somebody pushing their grade and can easily swallow arms and legs. A good route but painful on the toes and usually get a "never again!". A good finish spoilt only by loose rock can be had up a groove slightly to the right and finishes at the top of the crag.

Green Death Area. Another part of Millstone which is steeped in character and fame and not without reason. For most modest weekend climbers The Great north Road is on their hit list but at the other end of the scale is the famous Ron Fawcett route, The Master's Edge E7 6c.

From the right :- The Great North Road HVS 5a. Super classic HVS which seems to spook most first timers. A good single pitch up the obvious grooved corner under the small roof.  The first crux is at the first bulge which can be overcome by a bridge or layback. The roof is easier than it looks as small foot holds can easily be found out on the left wall. A classic!

Twikker Area:- Lyons Corner House HVS 5a. A lovely little outing, from the cave move up and left and swing out around the corner with difficulty and exposure to find good holds. Go up on the right wall and move left onto the arête to find one more difficult move and good climbing to the top of the arête. What a stonker?   

More soon or add your own photos and route descriptions.           

Please click on the photos to enlarge.

Thanks.