If you have never been to Pembroke pack your bags  now and go! Pembroke is a magical place for the climber with good easy access for the beginner to gaping zawns with almost impossible abseils for the more experienced. Something for everybody !   As the amount of rock is so vast the following notes just cover less than 1% but should give you a taste of what is available and save you some time on your first visit. Of course as UKCrags is an open web site you can send in your additions at any time and are highly appreciated. Because most of the Pembroke coast line is covered with suburb flora and home to rare birds (There are only 400 Chuffs in the UK and about 30 nest at Pembroke) a visit to the Ranger Web site is a must. Also Lucy Archer the cliff climbing ranger is always happy to receive and answer e-mails, she is also available on 01646 661359 or 07721 717134. Lucy has all the latest access details and is very helpful, she can be seen on her mountain bike patrolling the cliffs and placing appropriate notice boards. Part of the cliffs are within the army firing ranges which are split into two sections, Range East and Range West.    Range East is open at the weekends and some weekdays and Range West is only open to green card holders which are obtained after going to one of the army briefings held about twice a year, even then only 30 are allowed on the cliffs at one time.        In case of emergency please call the Coast Guard and state your location, it is always a good idea to say you are at Pembroke as some mobile phones are received by the North Devon coast and can add to the confusion. Helicopter rescue on Range West can also be a problem as landing a large aircraft can set off old explosives, needless to say that this is rare, also placing stakes holds the same risk on range west.  Castlemartin Range 01646 662280.                         Getting there:- Probably the best place to start is Bosherston, just a few miles from St Govan's Head. Take M4,A40,A477,A4075 to Pembroke then B4319, at first roundabout take the 2nd exit, nearly straight on, go down hill, round bend to right, approx 300m turn left onto B4319. Mind the sharp bends at St Petrox. At odd cross roads turn left (but not sharp left) to Bosherston. As you come into Bosherston the camp sites are on your right before the church. Our camp site (SR964947) is through hole/gateway in the wall on the right approx 150m before church, this gateway is good at removing paint from cars. Just round the bend from the church is Ma Westons cafe and Pub. There is also a very good public loo around the corner from the church. The cafe (Ma Westons) does great cream teas but does not do full meals (open 9-6), A great way to finish the day...... The pub however does full meals and great beer and is very climber friendly!

Click on the photos to enlarge

St Govan's Head.  If you fancy doing one of the classic Pembroke climbs with fairly easy access and a stroll from the car park, St Govan's Head could be your first port of call. Drive/walk South out of Bosherston to Buckspool and then to Castle Tank Tower and into the car park at the Chapel, have a cup of tea from the mobile chuck wagon and then stroll east about 1/2 a mile along the coast path to some abseil stakes located just before the curve in the coastline heads back south. A large stack separated by a dodgy 2ft step marks the right hand edge or the abseil point or a very greasy descent down the side of the stack.

Frontline Direct E1 5c. This starts under the arête about 40 ft left of the abseil point and on the south west facing arête of the stack. Start as for Frontline but takes the vertical groove on the left side of the arête. Start under a difficult roof and move left after taking a ledge, then up the obvious groove with the crux at a flake about 2/3rds height. belay on a stake on the mainland. 

Frontline HVS 5a. As for Frontline direct except take the right hand groove and finish up a chimney with difficulty. Not as nice as the direct version but still a cool climb!

Army Dreamers HVS 5a. Start 15 feet or so right of Frontline at the left hand side of the main wall. Move up to a horizontal crack and traverse left along an obvious line about 20 ft above the ground. At a vertical crack move up via a glassy step out left. A massive flake out right awaits a run on jugs to the top in an exposed but very enjoyable position. Finish a few feet from Frontline and belay on the mainland via a stake.

The photo left shows Army Dreamers, Sharp Shock and climbers on Bomb Bay.... All climbs are between 70 and 100 ft.

Sharp Shock E2 5b. Takes the wall between the two big cracks.

Bomb Bay VS 4c.    The crack on the right.    To the right of Bomb Bay is a corner and the Chieftain before the rising arête of the Butcher and the next wall.

Chieftain VS 4b. Up the corner on the right via a rising flake and layback to very easy ground. Can be very greasy.

The Butcher E3 5c. This very prominent arête takes the left side of the wall. Great jug pulling starts just right of the overhanging arête, move up to good gear using the right side of the arete. Place more good gear out right at 3/4 height before taking the arête direct and the crux before some more jugs. Very demanding and pumpy.    

Vice is Nice E1 5b There are two main crack lines that go straight up below the abseil area right of the butcher. This climb takes the beautiful vertical crack on the left. Nice hand jams in easy situations leads to a harder section and easier finish.

But Incest is Best E1 5b. Great climb up the right hand crack and to a difficult move leading to a flake and good gear. Then jugs. The finish can be a bit confusing as the crack splinters in different directions.

Centurion VS 4b. The right side of the Vice wall is a large flake with a crack running up the right side.

Clean Hand Blues Band E1 5b. Just a foot or two right of The Loosener. Start left on the small arete under the wall and make a difficult crux move to a thin horizontal crack on the centre of the wall and move out right and up.

Mowing Word Area. West of Stack Pole Rock and on the west side of this headland is Mowing Word. Head eastwards out of Bosherston to the Broad Haven car park, walk for about fifteen mins east across the beach and across to the headland. There is a small trench just above Diedre Sud in which to stow gear and have lunch out of the wind. On first sight it looks loose and wet but surprisingly holds some fantastic climbing in the mid ranges. Diedre Sud HS 4a. being the most popular in it's own right as well as an exit for the magnificent traverse Heart of Darkness HVS 5a.

Heart of Darkness HVS 5a. Truly outstanding route and worth stars. Start by abseiling and swinging down left to a large ledge just above the sea. Care should be taken as the wave can wash over this ledge even when the sea seems quite calm. Move out left and up to an arête at about 15 ft above the ledge. Moving around the corner taking massive jugs and ledges in spectacular positions for about 100ft to a belay. From the belay again move left to a good ledge just above and then down to a good traverse to a good belay and the start of Diedre Sud. Finish up the obvious corner crack for an easy but fine climb upDiedre Sud.  

West From St Govan's

Walking west from the St Govan's Head car park the following areas (see photos below) can be reached.More detail will be added at a later date unless you can help fill in the gaps.

Stennis Ford

Huntsman's Leap

Saddle  Head.

Saddle Head is a good place for easier graded climbs with easy access either by abseil or a long enjoyable scramble down the saddle of the headland. Most climbs are in the 4 to 5 and Severe grade. Moving out west of the easy base is the marvellous Blue Sky 160ft VS 4b,4b. This can be started either from the lower tier of Saddle Head by a further abseil down to a small raised lump of wave soaked rock (not recommended as the tide never seems to go out far enough or for long enough) or from a dodgy looking stake just west of the climb. This requires a good sized abseil rope. Start in the sea and move up about 25 ft to a good ledge and gear just left of the arete. Move up almost directly above to a very good ledge at half height and belay in front of a small hole. Again move up and right using a thin wet crack then left then out right to massive flakes and shouts of joy! Your abseil rope should be about 10 to 15 feet on your left. Great route and adventure.

Green Bridge Area. On the west side of Range East is a car park which is just a few minutes walk from the cliffs. When the range is open access is fairly straight forward (see signs for range closure times) and a viewing platform is even provided so a good view of the west side of the Green Bridge can be easily seen. Access to the Green Bride climbs is via a path over the arch and to some very small belay steaks at the top of the arch. There are a few routes on the Bridge and a good belay platform allows easy access so long as the tide is taken into consideration and the sea is calm.  Isambard's Kingdom HVS 5a.  takes the groove on the south west side of the arch.

Range West.  Range west can only be accessed after an induction session at the local army camp held by the army, coast guard, local warden and BMC who arrange these sessions. The inductions are held every year (see the BMC for details) and once completed a green access card is issued. With this card climbing is allowed on a daily basis (9 till dusk and usually most weekends ) so long as you sign in and out and obey the rules. ......... The are lots of bits of bombs lying around so heed the advice received at the army camp. The cliffs are patrolled regularly so clandestine climbing is not recommended! However once you have completed the course you will have access to some of the best climbs at Pembroke, but not only that you will probably be alone and claiming a new route or two.  Reading the visitors book in the army camp will testify to all these claims !      

Range West is best accessed via the car park on the western side of Range East which is open to the public at suitable times. Walk down to the cliffs and near the Green Bridge viewing platform turn right and across a gate to a road which leads past tanks and to a collapsed wall. Although there are miles and miles of range west to climb this area comes recommended for a first time visit. Head down to the cliffs just west of the wall to a ledge hiding a hole. If you abseil down the hole (70ft) you can get to most of the climbs in this area but you do not have to, but it is more fun. The ledge below gives you access to a multitude of climbs. Moving east at low tide almost as far as one can go on foot  is SpaceWalk HVS 5a. Probably one of the best HVS climbs in the area and deserves 2 stars at least. Spacewalk starts just by a triangular shaped pool, which can only be reached at low tide and with a calm sea. Climb the barnacles to a large cave (holds 3 easily) which looks very wet but is surprisingly dry. Belay your second to a safe dry spot before the tide comes racing back in. Move out of the cave (east wall) via bridging up a chimney and back out onto the main face above the cave entrance in a very  exposed position, move up a crack which is easier on its right to jugs and larger jugs. The top out is a bit sparse and rope drag out of the cave does not help find a belay point on a loose boulder or two up over the cliff top. Stunning route! 

More Range West routes photos ...... West of the ab hole.... You get a good feel for the quality of rock from these photos.

More Soon !